(a good example of this would be die-cast zinc-alloy carburetter castings.easily pitted, with just a little too much blast pressure, but rendered 'sparkly-clean' with the smooth cast finish 'as new', if done carefully. One must still take care to mask off any machined surface, to be prudent, but blast-cleaning, carefully done with gentle media, should not pit machined or other smooth metal surfaces. Gentle media-blasting, using walnut shell or fine glass-beads, run at low pressures, and used carefully, is a very different story. Actually, that level of sandblasting power could dig/wear holes through thin stove castings rather quickly, if concentrated in one spot even relatively briefly. Sending a vise, or any similar class of parts, to the class of sandblasters who do structural iron, such as bridges, or concrete or brick building walls, etc, would be a really, really bad idea, as the grit of sand, and the pressures, they commonly use would badly pit any machined surface, and could, indeed, warp (from heating.that sand creates a lot of friction as it strikes) even such as thin stove castings. Be sure to cut it with a reciprocating saw and a blade intended to cut metal. This pipe should not be cut shorter than 2 feet, to avoid smoke blowing into your face, but it can be taller if you so choose. The warning about sandblasting in the 'vises' thread was a good one, for people who are amateurs at restoring old equipment.Īctually 'media-blasting' covers a very wide range of materials and techniques. The stovepipe is the tall pipe on top of a wood stove that works like a chimney, pushing the smoke up and out of the stove. So, lightly hand sanding with increasingly finer grits of sandpaper. The sides shouldn't matter much, but the top should be smooth. For the smaller parts, you could soak them in White Vinegar then wire brush. An electrolysis tank will work, but may be too big depending on the size of the stoves. Walnut shells might work, but you'd be better off using a wire brush by hand to start with.
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